![]() Not a good idea if you want siding that lasts. Rather than installing plywood sheathing, building wrap, and wood siding builders using T1-11 essentially stop at the sheathing point and paint it. Thin strands of wood held together by glue and other binders are left exposed to the elements to degrade as they inevitably will. Yes we paint it, but that is the only protection we provide. It’s the same wood that is prone to the same damage if exposed to the elements, yet with T1-11 siding we proudly display our plywood or OSB siding to the elements. With T1-11 siding, which is made the same way as these plywood and OSB sheathings we leave it exposed. Major damage can occur to this sheathing if the building wrap is applied improperly or if water gets through the exterior cladding so we take great strides to protect it from exposure. On most structures we use plywood or OSB as sheathing and cover it with building wrap to protect it from the elements. It’s really pretty simple why I’m diametrically opposed to T1-11 siding, it’s called building science. ![]() T1-11 siding is typically installed vertically to give a look reminiscent of board and batten siding, but it can be install horizontally though that is rarely done. Not to mention that installation is extremely fast so that keeps labor costs down below most other wood sidings. Since the sheet is 32 SF you can side a whole building for $1.18 per SF which is far cheaper than almost any other option on the market. At the time of this writing you can get a sheet of T1-11 siding for only $38. One of the reasons this siding has been some popular is because it is soooooo cheap. They come with a 3/8” lap joint on the sides so that each sheet can be tied into the next sheet and keep water from entering the wall structure. It comes in a plywood version which is bad and an OSB version which is even worse. You have to decide which would be the better option in your situation.Sometimes referred to simply as “plywood siding”, T1-11 siding is sold in 3/4” thick 4’x8’ sheets. Unfortunately, this is a situation where you can't have your cake and eat it too. ![]() That's the other reason the z-flashing is not usually caulked- so that the bottom edge of the siding can dry out after it gets wet. One problem with caulking it would be that if the caulking comes loose from the siding in a spot or two, it would actually trap water behind the caulking and it would never get a chance to dry out. The difference would be that you have an actual mechanical flashing over your trim, rather than just relying on caulk, since caulk doesn't last forever. If you put the z-flashing in and then caulk it, it's not much different than skipping the z-flashing and caulking it to the trim board. But that's one reason why it's not usually caulked. If no water ever gets behind the siding from above, then it's not a problem. (if you didn't want to replace a lot of siding.) caulking the edge where the siding meets the z-flashing might help keep that bottom edge from getting punk again, but the problem with caulking it is that the flashing is supposed to let any water behind the siding to get out. It's possible that you could cut the rotton parts off, install the z-flashing, and just put a wider trim board along the bottom. Unfortunately, there's no way to prevent it from happening again. T1-11 siding is known for the problems you mention. Is the paint that goes over all of this supposed to seal it adequately, or should one run a smallĪny thoughts on all of this would be most appreciated.īob (PS: Is this the most appropriate forum for this ?) When it rains, due to small gaps between, or just capillary action, I would imagine water seeps in and probably migrates to the bottom siding edge (again). Obviously there can't be a perfect seal here between the edge of the AL flashing and the face of the siding board. ![]() Certainly sounds like a good idea.įound a picture of Z flashing on the web, and my question relates to the top most vertical edge of the flashing: It has been suggested that I make sure to have the bottom edge of the siding where it meets the horizontal boardīe flashed with a "Z Flashing". Also, a new horizontal board, as it does improve the looks. The bottom edges of some of the siding (rests on top of the 3/4 board edge) has wicked up water over the years, and looks as if Moved into a house that has T1-11 vertical siding.Īt the bottom, the siding is "finished off" with a horizontal board that runs the width of the house. ![]()
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